Have you ever had the opportunity to bring a non-pilot with you on one of your flying outings? Afterwards, when you are all ecstatic about what a great flight you have had, are you disappointed to see the sometimes less-than-thrilled looks on their faces when you ask them what they thought? I have flown from several sites with friends and family present, and their reactions are generally the same. The launchings and the landings they can relate to, but the in-flight experiences are totally lost on them as viewers, mainly because of the sheer distances involved. The main problem is that the hang glider and pilot are tiny when viewed from distances of several hundred feet or more, and of course the perspective is very different when looking up from the ground, instead of the other way around. Fighting to hold on to the control bar in rowdy air, or just gliding along in glass-smooth conditions, it all looks the same to a remote viewer. Video camcorders can help demonstrate the sport to spectators and give them a feel for what it is that we experience when we fly, but that of course must be done after-the-fact. A large percentage of hang glider pilots are licensed amateurs and fly with handheld 2-meter radios, but usually these transmissions are very short, to-the-point, and technically oriented, such as where thermals might be found or what direction they may be heading on a cross-country flight. Plus, no matter how good a pilot is with words, it is hard to narrate his feelings to a non-flying audience so that they can relate directly to what he is experiencing. A much more useful method is to have a real-time video transmission from the pilot to spectators watching on the ground, where the experience can be shared as it is actually happening. As such, the idea for Glider-Cam, a live amateur television (ATV) system that could fly on a hang glider, was born.

Since I had no experience with even ground-based ATV before this, I had to do some research on the subject to see if the idea of using it on a hang glider was even feasible. I started by reading past issues of a magazine dedicated to this subject, Amateur Television Quarterly, as well as several relevant websites that I found while searching the Internet. I was able to find quite a few interesting and informative descriptions of radio-controlled (RC) aircraft, amateur rocket, and balloon-borne ATV experiments that were very useful. From the information that I had found, I discovered that I could indeed build a system that would do what I wanted it to do for a reasonable price, and at the same time be safe and reliable in a flight environment.

Background Information

Without getting into too much technical detail, video signals contain a lot more information than regular audio-only transmissions, so they take up a lot more frequency bandwidth when modulated in the same fashion. In other words, the "channel" size necessary to transmit the signal must be considerably "wider" in frequency. The channel width for a standard amplitude modulated (AM) radio broadcast is about 10 KHz. (10,000 cycles per second), while the channel width resulting from the transmission of a good quality AM color television signal may be close to 10 MHz. (10,000,000 cycles per second), or about a factor of 1000 wider. To accommodate this large transmission channel width per user, it is necessary to restrict television broadcasts to high-frequency bands within the amateur spectrum. As such, ATV broadcasts are allowed in the 70-cm. band (420 – 450 MHz.) and those higher in frequency such as the 33-cm. and the 23-cm frequency bands. Any holder of a Technician-class or higher amateur radio license may legally transmit ATV signals as described in this article, and no license is required to receive the signals.

If we can operate on the 70-cm. frequencies and higher, then which frequency band should we choose? Well, that’s an interesting question that requires us to look into what the trade-offs are. First of all, the lower the frequency, the further the received signal range will be for a given amount of signal power and antenna gain. Second, the lower the frequency, the easier (in general) it is to work with the transmitting electronics. Third, the total system price is usually lower for lower frequency operation. All told, it is better in this application to use as low an operating frequency as possible, the penalty being a larger transmitting antenna for an equivalent amount of gain. Because of these reasons, I chose a transmitter that is designed to operate in the 70-cm. amateur radio band. By convention, the channels assigned to 70-cm. ATV use are located at 421.25, 426.25, 434.00, and 439.25 MHz., which align quite closely to cable channels 57 through 60. My particular system is crystal-locked to transmit on 439.25 MHz., or cable TV channel 60. This means that any cable-ready television can receive my signal by tuning cable channel 60 (not broadcast channel 60 – they are different frequencies) and of course using an external antenna instead of a cable connection.

Some of you may have seen advertisements for wireless video systems that seem to promise the same thing. These systems are sold for use as remote baby monitors, surveillance and security systems, traffic monitors, etc. In general, these systems are not designed to transmit quality color video and audio, much less to transmit more than a few hundred feet. Most of these systems are low power, with low-quality cameras, transmitting electronics and antennas that simply will not work well enough to provide adequate performance while transmitting from a highly dynamic environment such as a flying hang glider. Trying to use one of these systems for an application like this would be analogous to flying with cheap children’s walkie-talkies instead of a quality 2-meter radio. But as will be shown in this article, it is not difficult to build a system that will perform very well, is easy to set up and use, is relatively inexpensive, and is legal to use with the appropriate amateur radio license.

Technical Details

I started the construction phase of this project by choosing a transmitter. After reviewing what was available, I decided that building a transmitter from a kit might be enjoyable, and at the same time I could save a little bit of money. I purchased the North Country Radio ATV12-440 MK2 2-watt television transmitter kit with a 439.25 MHz. crystal, and went at it with my tool kit and soldering iron. A few nights later, I was tuning and testing the transmitter with my camcorder being used as a camera, and a homemade dipole beaming into a portable TV set. Fortunately, I was able to use a high-speed oscilloscope, so tuning and peaking of the various filters went fairly quickly and easily. This particular transmitter is available as a finished and tested unit, but at a slightly higher price. If you choose to build a transmitter from a kit, keep in mind that high-frequency video transmitters require very good soldering skills, as well as careful attention to detail. Component leads must be short, coils must be wound exactly right, and ground connections must be solid. If you don’t have these skills, or if you just don’t enjoy constructing electronics boards, then by all means buy a pre-assembled unit and save yourself the aggravation of trying to troubleshoot the unit. After all, the goal here is to enjoy the application and not get hung up on the details.

As is the case for 2-meter operation, FCC rules require you to identify yourself with your callsign at least once every 10 minutes. With a video transmitter, this can be done in several ways. Probably the simplest way to do this is to put a small sign displaying your call letters in the camera’s field of view. A piece of masking tape stuck to your harness with your call letters clearly written on it with a marker would be sufficient to meet this requirement. Also, the identification may be done in audio instead. You can just try to remember to say your call letters every 10 minutes, or a simple automatic Morse code audio device with a timer could be used such as the ones you are probably used to hearing on repeaters. Since I’m a gadget freak, I couldn’t resist adding a video overlay board to my system so that I could meet the FCC identification requirement by displaying my amateur call letters (as well as the date, location, etc.) in the video signal itself. This board is certainly not necessary, but I wanted to use it in a ground-based application as well, so I went ahead and bought it, packaging it in a separate metal enclosure from the transmitter. I desired quick and easy programming capability, along with small size and low power consumption. I considered a homebrew solution for this function, but after researching what was commercially available, I found all I wanted and more in the Intuitive Circuits OSD-ID PC-programmable unit. With this board, I can use a laptop PC to design the overlay screen and program the unit afterwards via a serial cable interface. Also, the board is fully programmable for on-off times. When I have used this board, I have programmed it so that the overlay comes on once every 5 minutes, for a period of 20 seconds. As you can see, this adds complexity to the system, and ease of programming becomes an issue. If one or more licensed amateurs are going to fly with a particular ATV system in the same day, you are better off just sticking with the masking tape solution so that the required callsign identification can be quickly changed.

The camera that I chose is a Supercircuits PC-79XS. This camera is a 400-line resolution color CCD bullet-style device, with a 4-mm lens. The size is small and the shape is relatively aerodynamic, both important considerations when flying on a hang glider. Because the camera can be mounted at several points on the glider remote from the pilot, such as the keel, the wingtips, or even the nose, I chose to use a camera without built-in audio capability. As such, a relatively decent quality dynamic microphone that I clip on to the inside of my helmet is used for audio input. The output of the microphone is connected to a thin coax cable, which is then connected directly to the audio input connection of the transmitter module.

Power for the system is provided by two 7.2-volt nickel metal hydride (NiMH) RC battery packs wired in series. I rigged up a short and compact wiring harness that allows for power from the battery packs to be input to the transmitter module, and yet allows for quick and easy access to a charger. The battery wiring harness should be as short as possible to prevent any stray radio frequency (RF) energy from coupling back into the system, and also to reduce the risk of a potential short circuit. Because of the variance in battery voltage (over 17 volts when completely charged), it is necessary to limit the voltage being supplied to the overlay board and to the camera to prevent damage. As such, I placed a 3-terminal 12-volt regulator in the transmitter module, and I routed this voltage to a connector located on the enclosure for use by the camera and the overlay module if it is being used. The battery packs are rated at 2200 mA-hr, with useful life in this application at greater than 4 hours of continual use. You might wonder why it is necessary to use batteries with so much capacity. Well, the reason is that when you transmit video, you will want to have the transmitter on continuously for extended amounts of time. This is very different from how a typical 2-meter transceiver would be used while flying, where very little power is consumed until the transmitter is actually keyed, and then usually only for a short duration. Most typical handheld radio batteries would be drained very quickly if they had to continuously transmit a 2-watt signal for long amounts of time.

The transmitter board is mounted in a 5.5 x 3.0 x 1.25-inch metal enclosure, and the video overlay board is mounted in a separate, identically sized enclosure. In this way, the system can be flown on vehicles that are more tightly constrained for space than my Wills Wing Falcon 170 by quickly eliminating the overlay module. The two 7.2-volt RC battery packs are mounted on top of the transmitter module, allowing a short wiring harness. The mounting of the battery packs is done with an eye on safety. Hang gliders can be subjected to considerable stresses in turbulent flight conditions, and it is necessary to allow for flexing and movement of the system, especially when it is mounted directly to the glider frame. Because of this, the batteries are isolated from the metal enclosure by a layer of thin foam rubber and held in place with strong Velcro ties. About the last thing you want is to have a hole worn through a battery pack while you are trying to fly your glider, especially with batteries as strong as these are. If pyrotechnics are what your audience is looking for, send them to an air show.

The electronics and battery module may be carried in a harness pouch or connected directly to a centrally located portion of the glider frame. My glider and harness are easily set-up to handle either, but I prefer the hardware to be mounted to the glider for ease in running the cables. As such, I have two twelve-foot runs of thin coax running between the camera and the overlay module to provide for the power and video connections. Also, a shorter thin coax is used to provide input for audio from the microphone. The Radio Shack dynamic microphone that I use contains its own miniature battery so no separate power cable is necessary. The microphone has a fairly sturdy clip that I use to attach it to the inside of my full-face helmet, right near my mouth. In this way, wind noise is inherently minimized resulting in good voice-quality audio. These coax cables are then routed along the glider frame tubes and taped down to prevent them from coming loose in the windstream. Since all elements of the system are located relatively close to the transmitting antenna, all interconnections must be made with well-grounded coax cable to prevent the coupling of RF energy back into the transmitter. This is done to prevent all sorts of nasty problems such as noise in the video or humming in the audio signal that will prevent normal operation of the system. Radio Shack sells a thin, very flexible video coax cable that is very good for this application.

The transmitting antenna should provide as much omni-directional coverage downward as possible, yet must be small for weight and aerodynamic reasons. Also, the antenna must work well when mounted in close proximity to the glider, whose large frame is made of thick aluminum tubing with additional structural support provided by several long steel cables – not exactly the most friendly high-frequency RF environment. Initial flight tests were made with a 5/8-wavelength whip antenna sticking out of my harness, mostly for the sake of convenience. Performance with this antenna arrangement was only marginal, with quite a few signal dropouts experienced. An RC airplane enthusiast who also flies with a video transmitter recommended that I try what is known as a Little Wheel antenna, manufactured by the Olde Antenna Lab. This antenna is designed specifically for the radiation pattern that this application needs, and works very well even when the glider is circling around in a thermal. The antenna must be isolated from the glider’s frame with non-conducting material such as wood, and is connected to the output of the transmitter with Radio Shack RG-8 50 ohm coax cable. The length of this cable should be kept as short as possible because it is extremely lossy at these very high frequencies of operation.

Ground reception can basically be done in two ways – simple and complicated. First of all, the main reason that I fly with this system is to provide a simple and easy way of communicating directly to a small audience. As such, the typical receiver that I use with my family or friends is an Icom R3 handheld general coverage communications receiver that has an integrated 2-inch LCD video screen. This radio/television is able to receive the 70-cm. amateur TV band (as well as standard broadcast television) and its brightness is reasonable for using outdoors in the sunlight. It has an extendable whip-style antenna that is fairly adequate for receiving the video signal, but sometimes requires the operator to reorient the antenna to acquire a better signal. I should mention here that a regular handheld LCD TV would probably not work in this application, because they are usually designed to receive the broadcast channels only. The receiving TV must be able to receive the cable channels to work in this application.

The second way of receiving (and more complicated) is used if you want to display a high-quality signal on a big-screen TV (such as the one at Wallaby Ranch’s lounge area) or if you want to videotape and archive your transmissions. When I really want high quality, with no signal dropouts, little interference, and good color, I use a specially designed high-performance 70-cm. antenna and a signal downconverter mounted on a child-size portable basketball pole. This particular antenna was chosen to give good omni-directional coverage skyward, without the need for manual tracking, while the use of a downconverter allows me to run up to 50 feet of RG-8 coax cable from the antenna to the VCR without losing much signal energy. The video clips that I have on my webpage were recorded in this way, with a VCR and a 13" portable color TV located in the back of my station wagon and powered with a power inverter off of the cigarette lighter. Again, this type of receiver system is used when you want the maximum quality level attainable, and is not what is normally required.

This set-up (including the transmitting antenna being mounted under the wing) is optimized for environments where the hang glider is flying mostly over the receiving antenna. This is true for several of the flatland airports that I fly from, where I aerotow my glider. This same configuration will probably work well for most mountain flying as long as the receiving antenna is placed in the landing zone below the flightpath of the glider. If it is to be placed relatively high up on a mountain in the launching area, then a different problem comes up. In this type of environment, one might spend a considerable amount of time flying back and forth along the ridge, level with, or even lower than the altitude that the receiving antenna is positioned at. Obviously, this case dictates that the main radiation lobe be mostly horizontal and not overhead. For this type of flying, I would recommend mounting a dipole antenna above the wing of the glider, or on top of the kingpost if your glider has one. Also, it might make sense to use a more directional receiving antenna such as a small helix for some flying sites, but I have not had the opportunities to explore these kinds of set-ups.

Once my glider is set-up and pre-flight checked, installation of the Glider-Cam takes about 10 minutes. I first clamp the electronics and battery pack module onto a downtube, then clamp the antenna under one wing and the camera under the opposite wing (or the keel, or wherever else the mounting position is chosen to be). The coax cables from the antenna and the camera are then run along the glider frame and plugged into the electronics module. The cables are then carefully tied down using duct tape to prevent them from dangling down in the windstream. When all mounting is completed and checked thoroughly, the unit is turned on and the Icom R3 receiver is used to align the video camera to make sure that the desired camera field-of-view is achieved. It’s really no more difficult or time consuming to set-up than a typical glider-mounted still photography system once you get used to it.

Of course if you want to videotape your transmissions, then you will also have to set up and check your antenna, downconverter, and VCR. When I have done this additional step, it has usually taken about another 10 minutes to perform.

Operation of the Glider-Cam is designed to be totally transparent to the pilot. There is no need to do anything other than to fly your glider just as you normally would, except maybe to provide a little narration to your audience. Because it is video and it is constantly transmitting, there is no shutter release to worry about squeezing off at just the right moment. And remember, there is no reason why you can’t continue flying with your 2-meter handheld rig just like you normally would. As such, the system can be somewhat interactive, with your ground-based audience asking you questions via the 2-meter radio, and you the pilot responding appropriately for the video transmission.

There are some potential problems that pilots should look out for if they decide to try a system like this. First of all is of course safety. Always keep in mind that this is flight hardware, and that you should never be distracted away from your primary responsibility of flying your glider. Make sure that your construction techniques are sound, both mechanically and electrically. It would be bad enough to embarrass yourself in front of your friends by having your poor solder joints result in flickering video, but it would be far worse if poor construction resulted in a shorted battery pack. Remember – battery packs such as these are very high capacity, and are capable of generating very large spark arcs. I highly recommend that you do several hours of bench testing to make sure that your electronics are reliable, and then take your system mobile to check the mechanical stability. After I was very sure that my system worked reliably, I mounted it on a mountain bike and went for a ride around my neighborhood, while recording the video on a VCR located in my house. In this way, I could check the videotape for signs of dropped video or audio, sure signs of intermittent open circuits that may have resulted from poor solder joints. Also, I recommend that you set up your glider and install the system along with your 2-meter radio, variometer, GPS, and any other electronic device that you fly with. You will want to make very sure that there is no RF interference to any of these other devices before you get in the air.

Those of you who have flown with 2-meter radios have certainly noticed that the amateur frequencies are not private; they must be shared with others. Frequencies that we can legally transmit on are open to anybody with the appropriate license, and most of the time we actually want to share our 2-meter frequencies with other pilots so that we can all keep tabs on each other as we fly. This sharing of frequencies is definitely not what we want in a video application, however. The obvious reason is that since we want to maintain a continuous, uninterrupted transmission, we don’t want another station interfering with our signal. As such, if more than one pilot wants to fly at the same time with an ATV system, they will each have to be on separate channels. Most of the commonly available ATV transmitters (including mine) are crystal controlled, and will work on several of the 70-cm. channels. Some are easily selectable via a front panel switch; others require the operator to manually replace the crystal with another one. Whichever route you choose really depends on how often you think you will need to switch transmitting channels. Right now, I don’t know of any other hang glider pilots flying with an ATV system, so the odds of interference from other pilots is nil. But I also transmit in areas that don’t seem to have significant numbers of ground-based ATV transmissions on 439.25 MHz. Remember – These are amateur radio frequencies that we are sharing with others. If you fly around major population areas, you run a higher risk that others in the area will also be using your ATV channel for applications other than flying. If in doubt, contact a knowledgeable amateur radio operator in your area and ask for some guidance.

Quality reception of high-frequency video signals such as those used in the Glider-Cam ATV system is dependent on several variables. The most important factors are the quality of the transmitting and receiving antennas, the transmitted power, and the propagation path for the RF energy between the glider and the receiver. With the antennas described in this article and the transmitter power level of approximately 2 watts, very good performance can be attained under most conditions, over distances of several miles, as long as a line-of-sight relationship is maintained between the glider and the receiving antenna. Trees and foliage will drastically decrease performance, and denser objects such as buildings and mountains can totally eliminate your signal. As such, some pre-flight planning may be necessary depending on your flying environment, and of course there will be some sites that are not suitable at all for use of this system.

When the signal strength is adequate, the received video quality is surprising good. The particular transmitter and color camera that I use have enough bandwidth and dynamic range such that the performance can be adequately described as "VHS-like" in quality. In other words, the received video will be displayed on a good television with about the same quality as typical VHS videotape. This is much more performance than is necessary for a small handheld receiver such as the Icom R3, yet it allows for the possibility of a quality presentation on larger televisions if desired.

Of course, one of the first questions that folks ask me when they see the system is "How much does it cost?" Here is a cost breakdown for the transmitter items. I did not include any receiver items because there are wide variances in portable television prices, and some of the other more esoteric items such as downconverters and special antennas are more for limited-interest applications.

Required transmitter components -

· Video camera - $100

· Video transmitter - $120

· Transmitting antenna - $50

· Battery packs - $60

· Microphone - $20

· Miscellaneous (coax cables, enclosures, connectors, etc.) - $75

Not required, but neat to have –

· Video overlay board - $125

Some potential improvements that I would like to eventually get around to experimenting with are listed here –

• Do more research on batteries, with an eye towards reducing weight and size. The RC packs I have used here are a substantial fraction of the total system weight, and lighter is always better for a flight system such as this.

• Experiment with a wide-angle camera with a better field-of-view.

• Possibly try a 2-camera system, with timed, automatic switching between cameras with different mounting positions on the glider.

• Continue experimenting with different configurations of transmitting and receiving antennas to improve reception in non-optimal environments.

But after all this, the questions remain – Does ATV work in this application, and does it provide an enhanced viewing experience to spectators? The answers that I’ve gotten are definitely yes to both! My son enjoys roaming the field with his receiver, and several folks have approached him to ask what is playing on his portable TV. Most people expect him to be watching cartoons or Pokemon, and are amazed to see that he is watching a live transmission from a glider overhead. I’m sure that there are other applications out there as well for a system like this. High profile sites could use a live video link to demonstrate hang gliding to visitors as it is happening, with additional commentary being provided by a knowledgeable person on the ground. It might be fun to watch the reactions of first-time tandem flyers, and instructors could visually monitor students on their first high-altitude flights and provide immediate responses back via a 2-meter radio. Competitions and aerobatic exhibitions would also benefit from video transmissions to the spectators on the ground. There are probably plenty of other applications as well, and pilots with a Technician-class or higher amateur radio license may legally experiment with a system like this one. I welcome any comments or questions that fellow pilots might have regarding this system, and I can be contacted via email at johnw39038@aol.com.

MPEG-encoded video clips from some of my flights with the Glider-Cam system are available for viewing at the following URL –

http://members.aol.com/johnw39038/webpage.htm    Click on "Hobbies".

These videos, as well as the still photos that are on the website and in this article, were made by digitizing an analog VCR tape with the use of an ATI All-in-Wonder video tuner card in a PC.

Further information on the hardware that I used in the Glider-Cam project can be found at the websites or email addresses provided here –

• Transmitter – North Country Radio    http://www.northcountryradio.com

• Video Overlay – Intuitive Circuits    http://www.icircuits.com

• Color Camera – Supercircuits    http://www.scx.com

• Transmit Antenna – Olde Antenna Lab    Email – w6oal@aol.com

• Battery Packs – Radio Shack    http://www.radioshack.com

• TVC-4G downconverter - PC Electronics    http://www.hamtv.com

• 'Eggbeater' receive antenna - M2 Antennas    http://www.m2inc.com

Set-up as of June 2000 shown below -

The 70cm Little Wheel circularly polarized antenna mounted under the wing with a wooden extension and two hose clamps.

The bullet-style video camera is mounted under the opposite wing with a modified still camera mount.

The blue and white box is the transmitter electronics package, and the two black rectangles are the RC battery packs. Duct tape is used to hold cables out of the way, and is NOT structural. All hardware connections are made to the glider with padded hose clamps.

At the suggestion of Ben Frink, an RC airplane ATV pilot, I replaced my whip antenna with a wing-mounted Little Wheel 70cm antenna. Performance was drastically improved, with much fewer signal dropouts. The above picture shows the system mounted on my glider. The antenna is on the right, clamped under the wing with a wooden support. The bullet-style video camera is mounted under the opposite wing with a modified still camera mount. The electronics and battery packs are mounted on the top of one of the downtubes, on the outside of the control frame. My son Scott is holding a new Icom R3 general-purpose communications receiver that also receives and displays television signals, including the 70cm ATV band. The photos and video on this page were received and recorded with a VCR in my car, but Scott is free to roam the field and watch/listen to my live transmissions on his handheld receiver. He is getting quite good at reorienting the antenna to track the glider in flight, and he says that the video and audio is quite good.

Still Photos From Actual In-Flight Video

Video on the ground was viewed on a 13" color television and recorded with a VCR, running off a power inverter in the back of my station wagon. After returning home, the VCR was connected to my PC via an ATI All-in-Wonder video tuner board where the video was digitized and stored in YUV9 format. Various frames were captured and stored as JPEG images, and two sequences were compressed in MPEG 1 format with a Ligos MPEG video encoder software package. Examples of these JPEG images and MPEG video sequences are given below.

The 6 pictures below were freeze-frames from video taken on 8/26/00, from Redwing Airport in Jobstown, NJ. The highest altitude in this sequence was about 3800 ft.

The next 8 pictures were freeze-frames from video taken on 5/4/01, from Highland Aerosports in Ridgely, MD. In the first one on the left, you can see the tow plane out ahead of me, just to the right of my helmet.  In the second one, there is a great shot of the tow plane banking sharply to the left side of my call letters right after I released at 2500 ft.  Note that the camera used for these shots is different from those above.  The camera below has much a much better field-of-view, but slightly poorer resolution and color performance.

Sample Video 

Wing-Mounted Video (8/26/00) - 1.83 MB - (60 seconds)

Keel-Mounted Video (5/4/01) - 1.92 MB - (62 seconds)

Above are a couple of videos from the wing-mounted and keel-mounted cameras. The videos are encoded as fairly low bitrate MPEG 1, so performance is quite limited and not terribly representative of what the actual received resolution is. Also, I have cut the frame-rate down to 10 fps to preserve bits, so you will notice some jumpiness in the videos. Notes - I use the Microsoft plug-ins to show these videos. It seems to work fine with Internet Explorer 5.5, but some folks seem to have problems with Netscape. Also, I've noticed that on the initial load of the videos that they sometimes don't always run to completion. If you don't get 60 seconds and 51 seconds worth of video for the respective videos, try refreshing the page. For some strange reason, that works. Hey, I'm a hardware guy...

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